[This is Part 2 of my How to Build FIREPLACE MANTEL-102 series.]
Build the Pilaster Cores
Your pilaster cores must be very square, so don’t rush this part. I can’t emphasize this enough.
Wrapping the core with all the other materials will be an exercise in frustration if your pilaster cores are not square.
My Very Helpful Tip
Read through the entire installation sequence before you start cutting, gluing and nailing.
I do my best to be very systematic on how I write these step by step tutorials — and in my mind they are perfectly clear — but it may not always be clear to you.
So just read through all the steps first so you’re sure it all makes sense. If something doesn’t make sense, you can always ask me questions in the comment section below.
Now let’s build the pilasters.
Before building your pilaster cores, it’s best to work out a rough sketch of all the mdf and molding layers with their dimensions.
Below I’ve cut all the pieces I need to wrap the core. The end result will be a paneled pilaster, room for mounting the corbel, and room for a baseboard to be wrapped around the base.
The Short Side
I want the base cap to return on top of the marble slip, so that meant having a short side.
If the corbel you buy for your fireplace mantel is longer or shorter than the one I used, then all you need to do is adjust this part of the pilaster.
I chose to install a different base cap around the pilaster than what I installed in the rest of this condo, but you don’t have to do that. You can wrap your own baseboard right around the base of your pilaster if you want.
I like to wrap the pilaster pieces in this order.
I don’t use Liquid Nails for this part of the assembly, I use a thinner wood glue so all the panels sit flush up against their mating surface.
23 Gauge Micro Pinner
The beauty of using a 23 gauge micro pinner to hold these panels in place with is that micro pinners have no recoil at all. Recoil on larger nail guns can knock your perfectly placed panels out of place.
Test Fit Pieces
Long before I ever get to this stage I test fit all the pieces together to make sure there are no surprises at assembly time.
See how easy that was? The hardest part is cutting all the pieces so that they fit together all nice and snug like this.
Below I used Liquid Nails and a few 18 gauge brad nails to attach the corbels to the pilasters.
The pilaster bases are just made from 3/4″ mdf board. You could use 1/2″ mdf if that would work better with your base cap.
Install Screen Molding Inside Panels
I love how deep and refined this combination of screen molding and 1/2″ mdf is. Molding too big for this purpose are often used in this situation, and the grace is lost for the sake of bulk.
Attaching the pilasters to the wall is as simple as making a nailer block that fits inside the core.
Scribe the inside dimension so you know how wide to make your block, and then make it just a hair narrower so the pilaster slips on snugly but does not need to be forced on.
Glue and nail your pilaster nailer block in place.
Add some Liquid nails to make it that much stronger.
How to Build FIREPLACE-102 Series Posts
1. How to Build FIREPLACE MANTEL-102 for c. $162.00: Part 1
2. How to Build FIREPLACE MANTEL-102 Part 2: Make the Pilasters
3. How to Build FIREPLACE MANTEL-102 Part 3: Make the Collar & Capitals
4. How to Build FIREPLACE MANTEL-102 Part 4: Make the Frieze
5. How to Build FIREPLACE MANTEL-102 Part 5: Make the Hood
How do we cut the angled cuts on photo 3 on the side pieces, they are to long for a miter saw. I just dont get it!
CG, those are cut on a table saw.
Would there be any complications extending the pilasters longer and making this into a door trim? This design is beautiful. I just want to be certain any “unexpected” problems will arise during the installation around your standard size door.
This is my basic pilaster design that I’ve used on doors, windows and archway surrounds, not just this fireplace.
The limiting factors to watch for are:
1. Will there be room on the left and right for the full width of your entablature? (see some entablatures here)
2. If there is room for your entablature, will there be room for moldings on the flanking door trim (if you have them)?
3. Will your entablature be so close to the ceiling that you won’t have room for a crown? (this post shows you how I integrated a large crown molding into a door entablature).
4. If you want to use a full plinth like the one on this fireplace, then you will have to use a scriber so you have room to return the base cap to the inside of the door.
Good luck Joe!
I gave up after trying to glue the bevel cuts together. Not to mention the mess I made with the glue. It is nearly impossible to hold these pieces flush and nail with the micro nailer. Ha if even I could get that far…no matter what I did the bevel ends would not fit flush! I was just going to fill in the horrible unflushed parts with Spackle or something, so I sat there for almost an hour and actually tried to hold half a pilaster together with glue and as soon as I put it down it fell apart, and this is with tightbond 3 glue. So frustrating. I do not understand how your pieces look so nice and perfect. I am just going to half donkey this and buy some pilasters at HomeDepot.