[This is part of my CROWN MOLDING-102 series.]
In this post I’ll show you how I installed the last three moldings that complete this large crown molding buildup.
Installing the Lower Detail
Installing this simple ogee molding (PM-008) is a crucial step towards finishing your crown molding on a solid note. It is an anchor, so it must be a rock-solid installation.
Above and Below Since I’ve already described in excruciating detail how to install a lower detail like this one, I won’t repeat it all here.
Just follow the directions in the above link and then come back here for the rest.
Installing the Upper Crown Molding
This is an easy crown molding to cope (CM-005), so don’t even think of using a miter joint in the corners.
Below As always, in addition to nailing the crown with brad nails, glue all contact surfaces — the top of the crown and the bottom.
Nailing Moldings Across Joints
During any molding installation where I have a long run of molding laying on top of a joint, like the one below, I nail on both sides of joint.
This gives the joint extra protection against later possible separation.
Below Look at the less than ideal overlap on the scarf joint below.
For some reason I no longer recall, I decided to nail that in place and blend it with sand paper later.
You can blend an overlap like this to perfection because the pine this molding is made from is relatively soft. When I was finished blending this joint, you could not see or feel any overlap.
Installing the Focal Point Dentil Crown Molding
You can cut this foam crown molding (CM-008-1) on your miter saw just like wood or mdf crown molding.
When installing a crown molding with an ornate pattern in it, I like to start in the corner that will be viewed the most.
You have the most control over how the pattern appears in that first corner, successive corners are more difficult to match the patterns.
Below Modillions are those little blocks in this design. And in this corner — the very first in this room — I wanted the modillions to flank the miter joint equally on each side.
Midway between corners I used a butt joint to splice the two pieces of crown molding together.
You will have to trim the ends of each piece so that the patterns match when butted together.
Don’t forget to apply glue to each face of the butt joint.
Below The modillion pattern came out nice on this side, strictly by chance, not by my doing.
You will have the least control over how the pattern matches in the last dentil crown molding corner you install.
Therefore make sure that last corner is in the part of the room that is viewed the least.
Can you believe that a crown this large, with this many layers could be so easy to install?
And I hope this installation sequence helps give you the confidence to try your own soffit crown molding.
Give it a try and then tell me how it comes out!
Prep & Paint the Crown Molding
As you may have guessed, a crown molding as large and detailed as this is going to take some time to prepare for paint.
I used the same process to prep and paint this large crown molding as I outlined in this very detailed post on the subject, How to Paint Moldings.
Set small blocks of time aside so you can relax and do a splendid job prepping your work. This is not the time to be in a hurry.
The only thing I did different here is to use a tinted primer instead of a white primer.
The finish coat of paint is Benjamin Moore’s, Revere Pewter, and the primer is tinted the same.
The tinted primer is not an exact match, but that does not matter, this is close enough.
All of your planning, work, skill and above all, patience, will pay off in a crown molding so grand it’s only seen in the finest homes around the world.
But you can do it.
And you can do it with affordable materials you can find at your local lumber yard.
So give it a try and then tell me how it all turns out!
Posts In This Series
6. How to Install CROWN MOLDING-102 Part 6: Wrap Lower Detail, Dentil, Cornice